Pwnc 1898

This is a record from the County Echo, dated 2 June 1898, kindly transcribed by Ann and John Hughes of Tegfan, for the Dinas Historical Society in 2012.  Here is the link to the full publication, covering the period 1894-1920 and published as "The News of Dinas".

https://tegfan.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/countyechofinal.pdf

There are many fascinating things about this extract. First, the Pwnc was clearly thriving in 1898! Second, that Whit Monday was the time it was celebrated. Hundreds of men, women and children took part, and there were three separate celebrations, organised by the Methodists, the Baptists and the Church in Wales. The Methodists met at Brynhenllan, where the congregations and Sunday schools from Newport (Tabernacle?), Dinas, Glanrhyd and Gethsemane sang. The Church in Wales congregations and Sunday schools sang in Nevern Chirch, representing newport, Nevern, Cilgwyn and Dinas. And finally the Baptists sang at Bethlehem, Newport, representing Caersalem, Jabes, Glandwr and Tabernacle. twelve churches represented, singing flat out and competing too -- for the Pwnc was a sort of cross between a Cymanfa Ganu, eisteddfod, gregorian chant and catechism....... the author of the news report refers to "pwncing" as a verb, which is interesting in itself.

I had not realised, until reading this account, that before 1900 the established church was just as heavily involved in the tradition as the non-conformists.

All other info about the Pwnc gratefully received. Please add a comment if you like!

See also:

https://tegfan.net/2015/05/22/pwnc-to-rhyme-with-nunc/

======================

2 June 1898

In Dinas Whit-Monday has for a generation or two been set apart by prescriptive right for the Sunday school and those who prophesy a gradual but certain death to the 'Pwnc' must have been most disagreeably surprised ere the day was far spent. Evidences were not lacking to prove that this event has a foremost place in the hearts of those who attend the Sunday school. The children had long looked forward to this great day, and rising with the lark, paraded Feidr Fawr with light hearts and in clothes of every hue, waiting for the brakes, traps, wagonettes, etc. to convey them to their respective destinations. The enthusiasm displayed was unbounded, and we are bound to admit that the “Pwnc” bears no trace of consumption – either rapid or slow – but on the contrary is growing in popularity. “Old Sol” was conspicuous by his absence, and several of the old seadogs were heard speaking of dark clouds and falling barometer. One of them exclaimed excitedly “O Marget fach, ble mae dy mackintosh di? Mae yn well I tI fynd I ymofyn hi, anyhow.” The scholars were afraid lest the rain would seriously interfere with their day's enjoyment. However, Mr John Jenkins – who is a shoemaker, inventor, painter, cementer, mariner, and weathercock rolled into one – soon brought relief to the anxious crowd by exclaiming - “Oes dim glaw ynddi heddyw, fallai bydd yfori”. The Yankee is not in it with our John. Fortunately John's prediction was right this time again, for although “Old Sol” denied his lovely presence during the day there was no rain to mar the children's enjoyment. All the schools were marshalled on Feidr Fawr and left in their respective conveyances for Nevern and Newport.

Mr Stephen Davies conducted the singing of hymns on the way. Some disappointment was felt that no provision was made to convey the little Taborians. The large brake at Tyrhos was disengaged and if we desire the Pwnc long life we must give every encouragement to the rising generation.

The Methodists assembled at Brynhenllan and comprised the following churches:- Dinas, Glanrhyd, Gethsemane, and Newport. The chair in the morning and afternoon was ably filled by Capt D Harris JP, Soar Hill. The various school went through their work in the following order: morning, (1) Dinas; Conductor Rev Ll Griffiths; (2) Glanrhyd; conductor Rev Ll Griffiths; (3) Gethsemane; conductor Rev T Lamb. Afternoon: Newport; conductor Rev G E O Morgan. It would be invidious to make a distinction when one and all gave such admirable renderings. The singing of the respective anthems showed that the various choirs had been in constant practice for weeks, Mr Davies, Trewilyn, remarking upon the excellent voices possessed by the Dinas ladies. The children, under the baton of Mr Davies then sang several tunes, the conductor remarking that their renderings bore traces of elementary school teaching. At this stage the Rev G E O. Morgan explained that the absence of the Rev John Mendus, Tymeini was due to illness and proposed a vote of sympathy with him. The Rev T Lamb seconded and expressed a hope that the Almighty would be pleased to extend his life to be with them for many years to come. He went on to praise not only their number but also the excellent manner in which they went through their work. The time at the disposal of the conductor (Mr T Jones) was so limited that he deemed it inadvisable to sing the anthem. However, the choir gave beautiful renderings of Rhondda and Armageddon. The deacons are to be congratulated for the favourable impression their school made during the day. “Yn mlaen yr eloch”. Mr Lewis, Moylgrove, conducted the Gedeon Sunday School.

The church had their festival at Nevern church and were joined there by the churches Cilgwyn, Newport and Nevern. The Rev John Williams had every reason to be proud of his flock. They, like Gedeon, made a record attendance and went through their work in highly creditable manner. The churches recited in the following order:- (1) Cilgwyn; (2) Nevern; (3) Dinas; (4) Newport. Extreme regret was expressed at the absence through illness of Mrs W E Bennett, Ashgrove. She was a tower of strength to the Dinas ranks in voice and manipulation of the organ, and we trust she will soon recover to take her place at church. In her absence, Mr J Harris had to conduct and play and he did not seem at all nervous at the work. The “gannan gleed” was given an excellent style. Cilgwyn church gave a splendid account of themselves, and shared with Dinas the honours of the day. The quartet was excellently sung by Mrs Prouse, Misses F Alderson, M Drew. E M Jenkins, Madge Davies, and Messrs T C and E Bennett.

Taborians held their festival at Bethlehem, Newport. They were conducted by their worthy pastor, Rev J W Maurice. They were joined by the churches of Caersalem, Jabez, Glandwr and Newport. The Taborians mustered in strong force and the concourse shows that the Sunday school at Tabor is in a very flourishing condition. We are told that the Tabor took the palm in singing and “pwncing” “Oedd Jim wrth y lliw a phwy rhyfedd.”

=======================

This is from 1900:

On Whit Monday, a large number of Dinasites assembled at the Church (Dinas) to listen to the rendering of the “pwnc”, which was recited by the following choirs in the order named: - Llanllawer, Dinas, Cilgwyn, Nevern, and Newport (Pem). The various schools went through their parts very satisfactorily and the manner in which the anthems were sung was most creditable to the singers.

Later in the day a sumptuous tea was provided in the schoolroom to which full justice was done. The following ladies, assisted by many willing helpers, presided at the trays; Miss Williams and Miss Alderson (The Rectory), Mrs Capt Thomas (Cambrian Terrace), Mrs and Miss Drew, Mrs Bennett (Ashgrove), Mrs Carter Bennett (Hescwm), and Misses [sic] Hopkins. The room was very tastefully and profusely decorated for the occasion with flags, buntings and evergreens. We might mention that the flags were kindly lent by Mr Buffins (Coastguard) who also rendered valuable assistance in the work of decoration.

In the evening a most successful entertainment took place in the schoolroom, this being the first gathering of the kind ever held in this village by the church friends. Mr Wm Bennett (Hescwm) who was in his old form, made an ideal chairman, and he presided over a large and well-behaved audience.


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There are various other mentions of the Pwnc as well -- it was something which was taken very seriously, involving many rehearsals. The "winners" at the celebrations clearly had every reason to feel chuffed with themselves!

======================

Here is a technical description of what goes on in the Pwnc:

Declamation in the Welsh folk tradition is still to be heard in canu'r pwnc
'singing the text'. As now practiced in southwest Wales, the tradition is connected
with reciting biblical scriptures at catechismal festivals, which became prevalent in
the early 1800s. The style of sung recitation may, however, be much older. In a typi-
cal example, a passage from the Bible is announced, and the precentor sounds the
note. One group enters immediately on the same note, a second part comes in at a
fifth above, and the two parts chant together at that interval. The rhythm of the
chant is even, the tone firm and rather staccato, the diction clear. Phrasing is accord-
ing to punctuation: the reciting tone dips slightly on each strong accent; but at
cadences on commas or periods in the text, the dip may reach as much as a fourth.
These cadences are snapped sharply, in a sixteenth-and-dotted-eighth rhythm. The
alternation of voices adds variety, as children chant in unison, then women in unison,
then men, and then the entire congregation once more in two parts.

https://scholar.googleusercontent.com/scholar?q=cache:Em2a6CoCfP0J:scholar.google.com/+pwnc+canu&hl=en&as_sdt=0,5

=========================

Another article:

http://www.andrewphillipsmith.com/uncategorized/canu-pwnc/

Canu Pwnc

Andrew Phillip Smith

Even though I grew up in Wales (albeit in Anglicised Penarth) and as an adult became very interested in traditional Welsh culture, I had never come across canu’r pwnc until my wife bought me a copy of The Rough Guide to Wales CD. The CD is a compilation of a wide variety of Welsh folk music, though not of Welsh music in a broader sense since it lacks any cerdd dant or male voice choirs. Canu’r pwnc is “a very ancient form of choral singing that… occurs in Pembrokeshire and western Carmarthenshire. ‘Canu’r pwnc’ is the chanting of scriptural text and usually takes place around Whitsuntide. The rhythmic structure and harmonisation sounds startling to modern ears, and yet this form of declamatory singing is very common and well-known throughout the region. The singing can last continually for an entire weekend, with people from different villages taking up the baton after a period to keep up the momentum.”

The selection on the Rough guide CD was recorded in Maenclochog in Preseli in 1967. They seem to be singing the genealogy from the beginning of Matthew or Luke. The singing sounds like the most pagan thing you ever heard. Canu’r Pwnc literally means ‘singing (bible) study.’ The people from Capel Rhywilym are prbably Welsh Baptists. But surely they were picking up on a style of singing that goes back at least to medieval times.

There’s an piece of Canu Pwnc on the BBC website, as part of a 1967 BBC Wales broadcast on Carmarthenshire. You might want to close your eyes when you listen to it for the first time, since the mysterious chant contrasts badly with the angelic schoolchildren in shirts and ties who are singing it on this clip ({if I remember rightly.) The link is http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/walesonair/database/pembrokeshire.shtml

There’s an interesting article on voice by Mike Pearson here: http://www.theatre-wales.co.uk/critical/critical_detail.asp?criticalID=98

He mentions Canu Pwnc: “Lampeter-based archaeologist Michael Shanks has written, ‘Archaeology is about some very basic and mundane things: grubbing around in decayed garbage, recovering traces of things and processes which go largely unnoticed today – what happens to broken bits of pot, to things that get lost, abandoned buildings, rotted fences, microbial action. A creeping, mouldering under-side of things’.(2) Archaeology leads equally to thoughts of ruin, decay, putrefaction and of aging, erosion, wearing…Which is perhaps why I found as much in the struggles of the canu pwnc group from Rhydwilym chanting John 1:1 – ‘Why do you move from a minor third to major third in your chant?’, asked the Vietnamese musicologist. ‘Because we can’t sing in tune’, replied the aged choir–as in the practised harmonies of the equally aged Bulgarian ‘Grannies’ of Bistritsa’.”

Many of the traditional forms of singing give an impressions of great age simply because the singers are of great age! This is often true of Irish sean-nos singing too. Still, this is a comic moment, a Vietnamese musicologist over in Wales being fascinated by an unusual musical transition that turns out to simply be singing out of tune.

--------------------

And this is the only recording I have been able to find:

https://www.muziekweb.nl/en/Link/KAX3850/The-Rough-Guide-to-the-music-of-Wales?TrackID=KAX3850-0005

Capel Rhydwilym — Canu’r Pwnc

on the CD “Rough Guide to the Music of Wales”, Track 5

=============

PS  Thanks to Erica Davies for bringing this film to our attention.  It's from 1974, and the last 5 mins were recorded at Cymanfa Bwnc at Capel Rhydwilym.  A wonderful document...!!

https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-capeli-1974-online 

About Plygain

 

This is a very good summary of the Plygain tradition, with a description of how it varied in different parts of Wales:

https://rcahmw.gov.uk/at-the-cocks-crow-y-plygain-an-early-morning-christmas-service-in-wales/

Here is an old BBC recording made in Newport (?):

https://youtu.be/nImLSke8Pio

All eight audiobooks......

Just in time for Christmas, Bolinda Audio has now brought out the last in the series of eight "Angel Mountain" audiobooks. They are all available in CD, MP3 and digital download formats. If listening to audiobooks is your thing -- or the preference of somebody you love -- look no further! Get immersed in the extraordinary world of Martha Morgan, as already discovered by hundreds of thousands of readers. What they say in reviews:

"A modern Welsh literary triumph... a page-turning plot, packed with adventure, treason, murder and passion."

"Another great, unputdownable read by Brian John. Old and new characters come to life in his thought provoking and clever addition to the brilliant Angel Mountain stories.”

"This book is filled with goodness; it is filled with caring, compassionate people. It has a message that basically the human species recognizes truth, justice, fairness and kindness. Martha dominates, with her mysticism, her meditations on the mountain, her joys and sadnesses. A timeless and compelling tale."

"Mistress Martha Morgan of Plas Ingli is now firmly established as one of the most interesting heroines in recent historical fiction."

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"Tears rolled down my face as the life of Martha Morgan came to an end and I felt a real sense of loss. All of the books have been amazing, enthralling, and inspirational."

Which one is the Wizard?

Gandalf, complete with long beard, flowing robes, pointy hat and magic wand.  In reality they 

were not a bit like that.......

Rowling and Tolkien have a lot to answer for.  In the creation of their mythical wizards, and by creating characters and narratives vivid enough to have turned their stories into massive international hits, they have made it very difficult for normal wizards to exist.

In the 1700s and 1800s wizards dod not look a  bit like Gandalf.  In fact, they looked more like these gentlemen:

Edward Jenner, the man who invented vaccinations.

Dr Syntax, a medical man who featured in a number of popular books in Georgian England, 

illustrated by Thomas Rowlandson.

If Rowlandson is to be believed, doctors or physicians wore perfectly normal sombre garb, not unlike the clothes worn day-to-day by clerics.  Jenner clearly did not favour a wig, but Doctor Syntax is always shown with a white wig and a dark three-cornered hat.  He often wore gaiters and black boots, and beneath his waistcoat a white shirt and cravat or ruff.

Of course, wizards like John Harries and Joseph Harries used the name "doctor" quite deliberately, even though they might not strictly have been allowed to do so, because it suited them.  As long as they maintained a good reputation with the public, and actually healed people or solved mysteries, their patients and clients were happy to go along with that.

So rest assured that Dr Joseph Harries, one of the stars of the Angel Mountain saga, looked much more like Dr Syntax than Gandalf...........

November

 

Eight years ago, during a spell of foggy grey weather with not a breath of wind, I wrote this little poem:

NOVEMBER 

Strange times.
November's complacent benediction
in blackness before dawn,
with just a hint of menace?

Silence.
Day after day
A grey shroud over our heads
draped from far horizons,
flat, heavy, damp
as a grimy sponge
drawing colour from the land.

A leaden sea.
Even the stream is low, slow, murmuring.
Night after night
no stars, no wind, no moon, no rain.
Unsettled, I listen.

Silence.
Then, in the far woods
A tawny owl,
right on the edge of hearing.

Adapting a diary for a screenplay: challenges and opportunities

We have been working hard on our project designed to bring the 8-novel Angel Mountain Saga to the screen. Lots of challenges and opportunities!

One of the things on which we have needed to concentrate is the perception that diaries (fictional or real) are difficult to adapt for the large or small screen, because so much of the narrative is told rather than shown, and the only things that happen are directly experienced by the narrator. There is something in that. We may never get a clear mental picture of the narrator, because there is no way that he or she would ever describe his or her physical characteristics in a diary intended for personal satisfaction, let alone his or her personality traits. As an author speaking in the “voice” of the heroine Martha Morgan, I had to drop in snippets in reported or remembered conversations about her beauty and her other physical attributes, and had to make it clear from her choice of words that she was passionate and compassionate, erratic and even eccentric, stubborn and incorrigible — and much else besides. But I have never yet had a reader who complained about “not knowing” Martha — and in fact many have said that through the diary format they had been given access to her spirit and her soul. That level of intimacy and emotional involvement between heroine and reader is something that every writer seeks to achieve.

By the same token the diary writer never describes those who are nearest and dearest, and the reader has to create mental pictures of family members and friends. As for the enemies, and those who are bit players in the drama, the reader knows that the heroine’s descriptions of them will be biased and very subjective, leaving the possibility that there is more to them than we might know…...

Also, in many diaries there is not much emphasis on the narration of unfolding events, or the development of a drama, but much more emphasis on the feelings and reactions of the writer — hopes, fears, anticipation, elation or disappointment. Even black despair, for a narrator who has to cope with her own personal black dog………. That having been said, there is an immediacy in diary writing that does allow a story to be driven forward at high speed, with surprises delivered suddenly and withy maximum impact, without any early warning signals.

Those are the challenges. But think of the opportunities! A fictional diary lays down the essential events from the beginning to the end of the narrative, and because a novelist follows the same set of rules as a screenwriter, there will be a basic three-act structure. In an adaptation, there will be far too many characters and too many events, and many people and happenings will have to be dumped. Key locations will have to remain unvisited. But in all of that there are huge creative opportunities — in the tweaking of the story and in the fashioning of character. A great screenwriter like Andrew Davies seems to have the innate ability to cull out from a complex narrative the essential components of a story that will appeal to a wide variety of viewers. He will have a clear picture in his mind of the hero or heroine and all the members of the supporting cast and he will use many devices in the process of making them believable and interesting. And as for the villains, the screenwriter will effectively have carte blanche, because their back stories (about which a diary writer or reader knows little) can now be invented and built into a screenplay as a B-narrative or a C-narrative. And writers like Andrew Davies have never been afraid of introducing new storylines or even new characters, if they think that these tweaks will enhance the power of the central story.

The best of all possible worlds — a story loved by hundreds of thousands of readers, an imperfect heroine who is loved by everybody, and a vast range of opportunities for a creative retelling in which many characters who were previously in the shadows can be brought out into the light and thus brought to life.

The Portrayal of Wales

Our MS, Paul Davis, kindly asked this question directed at the Economy Minister.  Sadly, the reply does not answer the question at all, but simply slides around the issue.  Here is the official record.

WRITTEN QUESTION
FOR ANSWER BY THE MINISTER FOR ECONOMY
ON 17 NOVEMBER 2021

Paul Davies (Preseli Pembrokeshire): What mechanisms and finance preferences has the Welsh Government utilised to encourage Welsh production companies to use Welsh facilities and talent for telling Welsh stories to a global audience? (WQ83849) 

Dawn Bowden: The Welsh Government’s internal agency, Creative Wales, seeks to maximise the Welsh benefit of all film and TV productions it supports, whether that support is logistical or financial in nature. The Wales Screen team within Creative Wales assists productions by applying the knowledge, expertise, and tools (by managing and maintaining a database) to signpost production companies to utilise crew, and showcase locations across Wales in accordance to production requirements.
Any contract of funding by Creative Wales for a film or TV production contains clear agreed targets for Welsh spend, which the applicant must achieve and evidence before the award is issued. A clear definition of ‘Welsh spend’ or ‘Direct Welsh Expenditure’ is included in any agreement, ensuring that applicants make best efforts to contract the services of Wales based cast, crew and supply chain companies in order to satisfy our terms. Should applicants fail to meet targeted Welsh spend, Creative Wales reserves the right to reduce or fail to issue the award accordingly.

=================

Civil servants and Ministers become very astute at not answering questions -- or at least, answering the questions that they would like you to have asked.........  I'm not very impressed.  For years I have been trying to get a form of words into the Guidance Notes for grant aid and project loans for productions for film and high-end TV.  But as I have often pointed out, nobody seems to be under much of an obligation to take genuine Welsh stories very seriously -- with the result that Wales is becoming known as a good place for the telling of other people's stories.   His Dark Materials, DaVinci's Demons, Dr Who, Casualty,  Merlin, and a host of other non-Welsh programmes have been made in Wales, but they are not OUR stories.  Of course we do not want to stop those big series from being made in Welsh studios, using Welsh talent, but there is room for so much more -- including the telling of top quality indigenous stories.  

Although broadcasting is not a devolved matter in Wales, so that Westminster pulls the purse strings, as far as I can see there is no reason whatsoever why Creative Wales and the Minister could not add a paragraph to the film / TV guidance notes which might shake out a host a great Welsh projects.  Where there should be national pride and confidence, we simply see timidity.

These are the words I am suggesting:

"Creative Wales considers that certain projects, in terms of their content, provenance or benefit to the industry, represent clear priorities for its funding.
Strong preference will be given to submissions on behalf of projects which:
*are of Welsh initiation in a creative sense; that is, conceived, written, produced and/ or to be directed by Welsh talents
*entail new and emerging Welsh talent in key creative roles, i.e. director, writer, producer, composer, principal actor
*tell Welsh stories, drawing on and depicting Wales's culture, history, way of life, view of the world and of itself.”

The feeble promotion and portrayal of Wales

I posted this on LinkedIn yesterday -- it's a bit of a gripe about the incredibly feeble manner in which Wales is portrayed for a global audience.

====================

Why is there no Welsh Government policy to promote the story of Wales through the broadcast media? One would have thought that would be a no-brainer for any patriotic Government interested in the wellbeing of its own people and in "marketing" its image to a global audience. But apparently this rather simple idea has bypassed the Welsh Government completely. My MS kindly tabled a question on this (WQ83849) in the Senedd, and received the reply that there are NO mechanisms or financial preferences in place that are designed to encourage the telling of Welsh stories to a global audience, in film or TV. This is in sharp contrast to the situation in Ireland and Scotland, and it is extraordinary that the forceful comments made on this matter by Sam Parry, Gareth Leaman, Nina Jones, Angela Graham and others in recent years have simply been ignored. 

 
Leaman wrote this about what he called "official Welsh culture": ".......no real representation of ourselves on screen; a superficial idealisation of the natural landscape; exploitation of crumbling socio-political structures. Wales as a hyper-real netherworld in which decaying infrastructures can only be used as props to tell other people’s stories.” Nina Jones complained: “Apart from the occasional Welsh accent in Casualty or mention of Wales in a small number of Doctor Who episodes, by and large, these dramas are set “elsewhere”. They do not directly represent a Welsh way of life. Even if Wales’s beauty is seen as an asset by BBC producers, Welsh issues have not been deemed worthy to commission shows for national audiences.” Some years ago the actor Michael Sheen claimed that the people of Wales are being short-changed by the broadcasters, who feed them largely on a "British" diet when much of it should be much more specifically Welsh. That is not to argue that Wales should be more introverted or parochial. He suggested that unless the current situation changes, the broadcasters will be complicit in the campaign to write Wales out of history and to deny Wales a recognition of its own character and its own narrative. 

So what's to be done? The Irish Government declares that in assessing applications for TV and film financial support, “strong preference" will be given to projects that "tell Irish stories, drawing on and depicting Ireland's culture, history, way of life, view of the world and of itself.” Here is a message to the Welsh Government: The template is there. Please just copy it and act upon it, and the sooner the better!

------------------------

The Irish policy regarding funding for screen projects:

Quote:
SCREEN IRELAND
Principles & Criteria
FÉ/SI's funding programmes are guided by some fundamental principles which form the basis of the decision-making process Developing Talent, Cultural & Industrial Priorities Consistent with its government remit and responding to the present perceived needs of the Irish audiovisual production industry, FÉ/SI considers that certain projects, in terms of their content, provenance or benefit to the industry, represent clear priorities for its funding.

Strong preference will be given to submissions on behalf of projects which:

*are of Irish initiation in a creative sense; that is, conceived, written, produced and/ or to be directed by Irish talents 

*entail new and emerging Irish talent in key creative roles, i.e. director, writer, producer, composer, principal actor 

*tell Irish stories, drawing on and depicting Ireland's culture, history, way of life, view of the world and of itself

Coming Soon........

 

The jacket of the last of the Bolinda audiobooks, out on December 1st.

On 1st December we'll have a modest celebration for the completion of the Bolinda Audiobook series -- all 8 of the Angel Mountain books narrated by Janine Cooper Marshall and Malk Williams.  On schedule, beautifully narrated and well produced, with a consistent image / marketing theme.  May thanks to Bolinda for a job well done!

NEWPORT AND DISTRICT: THE TOP FIFTY HERITAGE SITES

NEWPORT AND DISTRICT: THE TOP FIFTY HERITAGE SITES

These are the “top fifty” cultural localities in the area, listed for visitors to explore for themselves. Some of the sites have interpretive panels.

The sites listed (in no particular order) are mostly within 5 miles (8 km) of the centre of Newport, which means that they are within easy walking distance or cycling distance of the town. N = within the town. OT = out of town.

================================

1. Newport Castle, the Moat and the Castle Mill (N).
The castle is the great symbol of the Anglo-Norman settlement, and the focal point of the feudal system in the Middle Ages. It’s not open to the public, and part of it is used as a private residence. The mill near the castle entrance had an extraordinary water collection system incorporating the moat. After a long period of dereliction, the mill has been rebuilt and transformed as a residence.

2. St Mary’s Church, Church Chapel and Churchyard (N).
The church, although now largely Victorian, has its original squat Norman tower. It was clearly linked to the castle. Is the churchyard a pre-Christian round sacred site?. The Church Chapel was built and used by the early Methodists -- thanks to the generosity of the Bowens of Llwyngwair.

3. Street pattern and burgage plots (N).
The old north-south axis of the town was perpendicular to the route of the modern main road, with streets running from the castle down to the estuary. Several “abandoned streets” are seen close to the shore. The elongated gardens of the town show the outlines of the burgage plots, many of which were unoccupied until there was a big expansion of the town after 1800..

4. Llwyngwair Arms (N).
This is an old 3-storey coaching inn and the traditional meeting place of the Court Leet. Newport has a number of “feudal relics” including the Barony of Cemaes, the Court Leet, the Lord Marcher, the Mayor Making ceremony, the Burgesses, and the accidental continued existence of the Ancient Borough. (Actually the current Lord Marcher is too young to be counted as a relic……)

5. Parrog (N)
Many maritime traditions are associated with the old port. It was one of the greatest centres of the British herring trade in the 1500’s. Later it was expanded with the reclamation of a spit of land on the river bank, protected by new slate walling. There were trading quays, slipways, stables, warehouses, shipbuilding yards, lime kilns, sailing vessels, a mortuary, and offices used by export and import merchants. Then the estuary silted up, and the coastal trade died away. Now the Parrog is used entirely for leisure purposes.

6. The Parrog guest-houses (N).
In the early days of the tourist industry, after 1850, a number of lodging houses were built on the Parrog, expanding the community considerably — having previously been a hamlet of fisher-folk, merchants and seafarers. Later, it was a popular holiday destination for South Wales miners and their families.

7. Carn Ffoi fortified settlement (N).
This hillfort is easily accessible from Ffordd Bedd Morris. It’s a small site with simple fortifications. Probably it dates from around 500 BC or even later. Tradition has it that it was used in the Dark Ages by Irish brigands who terrorised the neighbourhood.

8. Cattle Pound, near Ffordd Bedd Morris (N).
An excellent example of a cattle pound, on Barony land. Thirty years ago it was in a bad state of repair, but it was restored and tidied up during a major community project. Stray animals were locked in the pound until they were reclaimed by owners on payment of a fee.

9. The town chapels (N).
These are the symbols of the foundations of nonconformity -- Ebenezer, Bethlehem, Tabernacle, Capel y Mynydd, and the St Mary’s Church Chapel. They were all enlarged at the time of the great evangelical revivals during the 1800’s, but are now sustained through the efforts of very small congregations.

10. Old Primary School (N).
Built in 1875 and much modified. When the children moved to the light and modern Ysgol Bro Ingli, the building became the Old School Business Centre and youth hostel. The old Caretaker’s House was converted as the office of the local charity ECO Centre Wales. The PV installation on the roof (dating from 1996) was a pioneering initiative — the very first grid-connected solar power station in the UK. From small beginnings great things grow.

11. Madame Bevan’s College (N).
The college was located on College Square. It was set up as part of the Circulating Schools movement pioneered by Griffith Jones, and the main benefactor was Madame Bevan of Laugharne. The school provided education for local children between 1804 and 1875, and it was also used for teacher training. John Morgan was head teacher for 47 years.

12. The Lifeboat Station at Cwm (N).
Built 1884 and abandoned in 1895 because of the difficulty in launching the lifeboat at certain states of the tide and with an onshore wind. A good example of noble intent and extremely bad planning!

13. Shiphill Lime Kiln (N).
A spectacular lime kiln on the shore of the estuary, near the Iron Bridge. There was also a small shipyard here at one time. The lime kiln was almost lost in the undergrowth, but it was renovated with help of funding from Aderyn , and it is hopefully now secure for future generations to admire!

14. Pilgrim’s Stepping Stones (N).
The stepping stones over the river, adjacent to the Iron Bridge, are traditionally associated with the pilgrims who were travelling to St David’s via Nevern and Newport. However, they were in solid use by the community for almost 300 years before the first iron bridge was built here in 1890.

15. Carreg Coetan Arthur (N).
Excellent and easily accessible burial chamber dating from Neolithic period, about 3500 BC. Excavated in 1979-80. There’s an adjacent information board. Located in a small housing estate.

16. Communal water sources (N).
Piped water did not arrive in the town until 1929, and before that local people obtained their water from about 20 water-spouts, taps, pumps and natural springs. Each one was known as a “pistyll”. Five beautiful cast iron communal taps remain: one is on College Square, and another on Goat Street.

17. Market Street and Ffair Gurig (N).
The name gives the game away. But look at the width of the street as well — it was clearly designed from the outset to be the places where markets — including the selling of livestock — could be held to maximum advantage. Some sections of the wide verged have now been enclosed. The biggest fair held here was Ffair Gurig, in the month of June. The market tradition has recently been revived with the popular Monday morning street market.

18. Memorial Hall and the Medieval Pottery Kiln (N).
The Memorial Hall was built in 1922 by public subscription to honour the local people who fell in the First World War. It also included a library and reading room. Work on the foundations revealed two 15th century pottery kilns — the only ones surviving in Wales. One of the kilns is revealed through a glass screen, following a major restoration project.

19. Carn Cwn and the Wishing Well (N).
Not far from the top of Greystones Hill is a fascinating tor made of volcanic rocks, accessible via a number of footpaths. Why is it called “dog rock”? It’s wild and beautiful! Beneath one of the great slabs of rock is a hidden pool of water, known down through the generations as a Wishing Well. Throw in a bent new pin, and make your wish. The water is also supposed to have healing qualities.

20. Bethlehem Baptistry (N).
Members of the Baptist congregations in Wales were always baptised through total immersion. Sometimes baptisms were conducted in favourable spots in a stream or river, but some chapels had their own beautifully fashioned baptistries, complete with sluice gates and ornamental ironwork. One such is on Mill Lane, above Pont Henrietta Mair.

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21. Traeth Mawr (OT).
Newport’s “big beach” — a vast expanse of fine sand backed by sand-dunes. The 18-hole golf course is renowned as one of the most beautiful in Wales. Back in Elizabethan times the old game of cnapan was played on the sands, involving up to 2,000 players. At one time seine net fishing off Traeth Mawr made an essential contribution to local food supplies..

22. Cerrig y Gof burial chambers (OT).
This is a very unusual collection of five Neolithic burial chambers clustered together -- dated to around 3,000 BC. Easily accessible from the main road, but be careful with fast traffic.

23. Pentre Ifan burial chamber (OT).
This has to be included here since it is the most famous burial chamber in Wales! It was excavated in1936 and 1959. It’s one of those “not to be missed” locations. There is good parking, and an information board on site. They do say that this is a place where fairies dance.

24. Bronze Age enclosures on Carningli Common (OT).
There are abundant circular enclosures, traces of embankments, clearance cairns, walls, sunken tracks etc near the path from the town up to the summit. These are thought to date mostly from the Bronze Age and the Iron Age.

25. Bedd Morris Standing Stone (OT).
This famous Bronze Age standing stone (called the grave of Morris) is at roadside opposite a parking area. There are various legends about his identity and his demise. The stone also function as a boundary marker for the parish, and it is visited every year by townspeople during the “Beating of the Bounds” perambulation.

26. Carningli Iron Age hillfort (OT).
The old fortified settlement on the summit of the mountain is one of the most spectacular Iron Age sites in West Wales, with massive defensive walls (that have been slighted), animal enclosures, hut circles and windswept summit crags. On the summit, St Brynach communed with the angels.

27. Castell Henllys Iron Age settlement (OT).
This is a small fortified settlement site inland, initially excavated when it was owned by Hugh Foster, a very colourful local character. Following his death it was taken over by the National Park. Faithfully constructed Iron Age huts, visitor centre, education centre, car park and picnic area etc. (Entry charge)

28. Sea Quarries (OT).
There are several old slate/shale quarries along the cliffs between Parrog and Aberrhigian. Working conditions were appalling, with great exposure above and breaking waves below. Horses and carts hauled away much of the slate, but in calm weather barges were loaded in little docks — some of which can still be seen. Some of the quarries were owned by the Llwyngwair Estate.

29. Nevern Church and Churchyard (OT).
Enough here to write a book! This was the site of St Brynach’s monastic community. The squat Norman tower and the stone-built church came centuries later. The tower now houses a full peal of bells. The churchyard has several famous burials — see the Bowen family tombs. Nevern Celtic Cross is one of the most famous in Wales, and there are carved stones with Ogham script on their sharp edges. . Bleeding yew trees, horse mounting block, nearby Pilgrim’s Cross, and a magnificent bridge. The community hall was once a primary school, and before that (1811-1876) it was a chapel used by the Methodists.

30. Nevern Castle (OT).
Excellent example of a motte and bailey castle. Norman originally, but occupied later by the Welsh princes. Earthworks include a substantial castle mound with traces of masonry. There’s a strange “inner castle” with a rock-cut ditch and ruined tower. Local legends of persecution, betrayal and family feuds are associated with Lord Rhys and his sons. Free entry -- information panel.

31. Tregynon Fort, near Pontfaen (OT).
A small Iron Age camp or fortified settlement on a spectacular site above Cwm Gwaun. A nice example of a “family” site with simple defences -- there are many others in the Newport district. There is a nearby high waterfall that sometimes has water in it.

32 Llwyngwair Manor (OT).
The best preserved local mansion or gentry house. The estate dates back to the period of Anglo-Norman settlement. Once owned by Cole family, it was late in the ownership of the powerful Bowen family. The mansion is now used for functions with facilities for the surrounding caravan park. There’s an attractive gatehouse adjacent to main road, and Pont Newydd is an attractive old bridge over the Afon Nyfer.

33. Pont Ceunant and the stone walls (OT).
This is a beautiful example of an ancient stone bridge (or more properly a viaduct) over a stream in a deep valley. Note also the stone walls on the flank of the mountain, including a V-shaped arrangement of walls used for driving and sorting sheep. Complex animal enclosures or folds -- how old are they?

34. Felindre Farchog (OT).
Old settlement on the main road, originally a “knight’s mill-town”. Road bridge, old mill, Salutation Inn, a beautiful cattle pound, and George Owen’s “College” — one of the best preserved Elizabethan buildings in Pembrokeshire. Its main purpose was as a courthouse for the Petty Sessions and Court Leet. There are old and new chapels on opposite sides of the road -- Cana Chapel has a very posh facade, made of spotted dolerite stone.

35. Cwm yr Eglwys (OT).
A small sea-trading and fishing community on the sheltered eastern side of Dinas Island. All that’s left of the stone church is one gable end — now stabilised as a result of major sea defence works. Contrary to local legend, the church was not destroyed in a great storm in 1859 — it was already on the way out, but that storm was the last straw. For at least 50 years before that, erosion of the graveyard had caused abundant human remains to drop down onto the beach. Very disconcerting.

36. Cilgwyn Church and Fagwr Lwyd (OT).
The Henry Tudor connection. The young prince and his mercenary army camped and worshipped near here en route to Bosworth Field in 1485. The Victorian church, with its family burial enclosure, fell into disrepair but is now a family dwelling.

37. Pandy in Cwm Gwaun (OT).
Here, not far from Llannerch in Cwm Gwaun, there are traces of a millers cottage and pandy or fulling mill, with an old leat and pond. One of very few traces in West Wales. Nearby, in the headwaters of the Gwaun river, there are beautiful pools connected by cataracts.

38. Brynberian Chapel and hamlet (OT).
This is a fascinating small village, more modern than most of the villages of North Pembrokeshire. On some of the older maps it’s not even named. Capel Brynberian is one of the earliest nonconformist chapels in Wales, dating back to 1690. It has been rebuilt many times, and has its entrance on one of the long walls. The old school has been refurbished as a splendid community facility with a wildflower garden.

39. Bedd yr Afanc (OT).
This is a fabulous site out on the open moor — reachable via a lane adjacent to Brynberian Bridge. It’s a gallery grave, probably of Neolithic age, made up mainly of two parallel rows of small stones. According to local legend, this is the burial place of a local “afanc” or water monster that was killed by the men of the community after it was tempted out of the river by a brave and beautiful virgin.

40. Carnedd Meibion Owen (OT).
This is the name of four prominent tors on an upland ridge above Tycanol Wood. They are ice-smoothed crags made of dolerite rock. According to legend, the four crags are the petrified remains of the last giants to have inhabited this area. Easily accessible by a short walk from the Brynberian road. Fabulous views.

41. Ty Canol Wood (OT).
A local nature reserve — carefully protected as an SSSI because it is an ancient woodland of twisted oak trees and moss-covered boulders, with abundant lichens that thrive in this very special environment. Rocky crags among the gnarled oaks, and meltwater channels cut during glacial episodes. There's also an Iron Age fort in the woods. In May, the woodland floor is carpeted with bluebells.

42. Moylgrove (Trewyddel) (OT).
A steep hillside village on the coast road between Newport and St Dogmaels. It’s very pretty — sheltered in a deep wooded valley. In 1386 it was called Molde Grove. It’s named after Matilda, wife of the first Lord of Cemais. The 200 acre grove was a part of her dowry.

43. Ceibwr and the Witches Cauldron (OT).
Truly spectacular coastal scenery, with contorted sedimentary beds exposed in the cliffs, and tall stacks close inshore. Ceibwr is a small sheltered cove, but without a sandy beach. Meltwater channels and ancient glacial deposits. The Witches Cauldron is a collapsed cave with a tidal pool, connected to the outer coast through a series of tunnels. The stream, rich in iron and manganese, was reputed to have healing properties.

44. Cwm Gwaun (OT).
One of the most beautiful wooded valleys in Wales, running like a deep gash from Cilgwyn to Lower Town Fishguard, about 12 km away. It’s a textbook example of a glacial meltwater channel, probably formed about 500,000 years ago. The valley community still celebrates Hen Galan (The Old New Year) on 13th January each year. The valley has more than its fair share of tales of the supernatural.

45. Pentre Ifan Urdd Centre (OT)
An ancient farmhouse on the minor road heading from Newport to Pentre Ifan cromlech and Crosswell. About 40 years ago it was used as the HQ for Resurgence magazine which promoted green issues and self sufficiency, linked to other initiatives in communal living at Fachongle Isaf and Brithdir Mawr. More recently the Gatehouse has been tastefully converted into a centre for youth activities and courses by Urdd Gobaeth Cymru.

46. Ffald y Brenin (OT)
This is a Christian retreat centre on the side of Cwm Gwaun. It used to be called Sychpant, but in 1984 Phyllida and Peter Mould set about converting the buildings with the help of architect Chris Day and local builders. It was renamed Ffald y Brenin, and now attracts residents and day visitors for retreats, prayer, study and refreshment. The buildings are quite famous too!

47. Bayvil Church (OT).
A little Georgian church not far from Nevern, in open country where there used to be a village. It’s been deconsecrated, and is now looked after by the Friends of Friendless Churches. Slate floor, box pews, double pulpit and even a bier for carrying coffins in and out. It’s serene and very beautiful.

48. Llanllawer Holy Well (OT).
The only known holy well or spring high on the Carningli-Dinas Mountain ridge is at Llanllawer, adjacent to a semi-derelict bellcote church which was rebuilt in 1859. The spring, which still flows, is contained within a rough stone-vaulted structure open on one side.

49. Carningli Mountain Railway (OT)
The green track that runs up Carningli from the parking area on the Dolrannog road once supported a flimsy single track railway line. Cable-hauled wagons carried quarried stone blocks down to a crushing plant on the Cilgwyn road. The most prominent traces left of this short-lived enterprise are the stone towers which supported a cable drum — used to control the descending full wagons and then haul them back up again.

50. The Dyffryn Arms, Pontfaen (OT).
We have to include Bessie’s pub on this list, because it is an institution, renowned throughout the land. It’s been operating since around 1840. Here you can obtain Bass from the keg, served in perfect condition in a space that is more like a private front room than a public bar. Don’t ask for food or anything fancy, since you will be disappointed. It’s back in action again following a serious fire some years ago.

Bedd Arthur

 

Had to share this -- a brilliant pic posted by Hugh over on his Preseli360 page.  Bedd Arthur, with the crags of Carn Meini Carn Menyn) in the distance......  and Foel Drygarn and Frenni Fawr as well......

Droning around Carningli

 This is an interesting perspective on the craggy summit of Carningli -- a short drone film from Steve Spon, with very moody music entitled "Mount of Angels" by Nostramus.

The film could have done with tighter editing, but there are great shots of the crags and the defensive walls -- all in a ruinous state but still perfectly visible.

https://youtu.be/x4BlAWhUSE0

 

Bethesda Baptistry, Mill Lane

 

This is rather sad.  Bethesdea Baptistry, on Mill Lane, above Pont Henrietta Mair.  An important part of our local heritage.   It's being taken over by nature, and has clearly not been used for many years.  It needs a small working party to sort it out -- any volunteers?

Newport -- a potted history

NEWPORT — A POTTED HISTORY

The ancient township of Newport lies between the north facing slope of Carn Ingli and the south bank of the River Nevern estuary, surrounded by diverse and beautiful landscapes. Situated on the edge of the Preseli Hills within Britain’s only coastal National Park, the countryside here is rich in local and natural history. The well-planned walks enable visitors to enjoy the town, the nearby hills and the coastal scenery. The town offers a variety of attractions from prehistoric burial sites to a Norman castle and a medieval pottery kiln. Newport's location makes it a popular centre from which to explore the whole of North Pembrokeshire including Mynydd Preseli.

Carreg Coetan

 

Origins of Newport

The area abounds with evidence of its early inhabitants. Carreg Coetan Arthur is a Neolithic burial chamber or cromlech. Both Carn Ingli and Carn Ffoi show abundant traces of Iron Age forts and hut circles, but some features are probably much older. In the 6th century Saint Brynach (the local saint) is said to have climbed Carn Ingli often, to ‘commune with the angels’. The Welsh name for Newport is Trefdraeth — ‘the township on the shore’. This early Celtic settlement was at Parrog on the Nevern estuary, and the Normans founded the garrison town of Newport many centuries later. 

Newport Castle

Newport Castle & Barony

Newport was incorporated as a Norman borough, in the Lordship of Cemaes, in the early 13th century. A crescent shaped earthwork, known as Hen Gastell on the estuary to the north of Newport Castle is probably the site of the first wooden stronghold of William Fitzmartin. It was used after he had been ousted from Nevern by the Welsh Prince Rhys ap Gruffydd in 1191. His fort was destroyed by Llewelyn the Great in 1215. Rebuilt, it was again destroyed, along with the town, by Llywellyn ap Gruffydd in 1257. Rebuilt this time in stone, it was later attacked and destroyed by Owain Glyndwr during the Welsh uprising of 1400 to 1409. Famous Elizabethan antiquarian George Owen was Baron of Cemaes during the late 15th and early 16th centuries. A private residence was incorporated into the ruined gatehouse in the 19th century. The Court Leet of the Barony continues to meet today, the present Lord Marcher exercising the privilege of nominating the mayor of Newport every 2 years. In August the beating of the bounds takes place, when a procession of local people ‘perambulates’ the boundary of the parish. (The castle is not open to the public except on very rare occasions).

Agriculture

Newport was originally made up of burgages with narrow frontages along the streets of the town. Each burgage plot had a dwelling built from a mixture of clay and straw and was long enough to grow crops and keep a few animals. Many plots extended to hand hewn water channels running parallel to the north-south streets giving Newport its distinctive mediaeval layout. Burgage holders, called burgesses, were required to attend the Court Leet (being fined for any absence), to grind their corn at the Castle Mill and, for a toll, they were allowed to sell their produce at the town market. In 1434 there were 233 burgages but by 1594 only 50 of those were habitable. Sheep farming had always been important in the area but with the General Enclosure Act of 1801 people lost their rights to graze animals. Poor harvests led to a shortage of bread and many inhabitants emigrated to America. Later in the 19th century Newport began to prosper again with the rise in importance of coastal trading.

Parrog and Sea Trade

Records show Newport was a trading port in the 16th century, with wool and cloth making up two thirds of all exports. At this time slate was quarried from the sea cliffs and exported. In the 1740s herring was exported to Bristol, Wexford, Dublin and as far as the Mediterranean. Herrings from Newport and Fishguard fed the armies of Queen Elizabeth in Spain. Ships would come in on a high tide and settle on the shore as the tide went out. Old photographs show cargoes being loaded into horse-drawn carts. In the 18th & 19th centuries shipbuilding took place along the estuary. The single-mast sloop and the two-mast brig were the most common types of vessel. Imports in the 19th century were primarily of limestone, coal and culm. Storehouses were built to accommodate this trade. The only one to survive now houses Newport Boat Club. From the 1850s many ports in Pembrokeshire were in decline as a result of the coming of the railways. But because Newport had no rail connection, coastal trading continued until 1934 when the Angus, carrying a cargo of coal, was the last ship to use Newport harbour. 

Parrog steps

Limekilns

The soil in Pembrokeshire is extremely acidic. Farmers spread lime on their fields as early as the 16th century. Limestone was brought by sea from the south of the county, burnt in kilns over a culm fire, cooled and carted to the farmland. Culm, also originating from the south, is a mixture of anthracite coal dust and clay, mixed with water and moulded by hand into balls. This burnt in domestic fireplaces as well as kilns. Originally, there were many lime-kilns in the Newport area but only 2 remain, both double-kilns. One can be found opposite Newport on the north side of the River Nevern and the other on Parrog, next to its limeburner’s cottage.

St Mary’s Parish Church

Newport's Parish Church was built in the 13th century by William Fitz Martin, grandson of the first invader of Cemaes. By the middle of the 19th century the church was in a very poor state of repair. By 1879 it had been restored and rebuilt to its present state. All that is left of the Norman building is the sturdy tower, a fine Norman cushion-type font and a holy water stoup. Attractive Victorian stained glass windows commemorate former Rectors and John Morgan, master of Madam Bevan’s School for 47 years. The extensive graveyard holds over 1000 memorials of which more than 200 have references to the seafaring families of Newport. An upright stone near the west door is inscribed with an early Christian cross, probably 6th or 7th century. This stone was found in use as a gate post near Cnwcau Farm.

Church Door

 

Chapels of Newport

There are four chapels in Newport. The oldest is the Ebenezer, the Congregationalist Chapel in Lower St. Mary Street, established in 1743 and rebuilt in 1844. The Church Chapel of St. Mary's Church in Upper St. Mary Street was built in 1799, for the use of Methodists and non-Methodists alike. John Wesley, founder of the Methodist movement, preached at St. Mary’s Church several times. In 1811 the Methodists separated from the Anglican Church and they built their own, Tabernacle Chapel, in Long Street in 1815. The Baptists held services in a private house in Upper Bridge Street in the mid 17th century. In the same street in 1789, the Bethlehem Chapel was built. Sixty years later it was rebuilt with its tall Gothic windows that remain today.

Education

The first school in Newport was established in College Square in 1809, funded by and named after Madam Bevan of Laugharne. It was part of the nationwide ‘Circulating Schools’ movement, which was set up to give children in rural communities the opportunity to receive an education and maintain the Welsh language. It was also used as a base to train teachers. Madam Bevan's Central School continued until 1870 when the Education Act was passed. It is now a private residence. The Board School (now used by the YHA and as a small business centre) was opened in 1875 on Lower St Marys Street and was enlarged in 1914. The present school, Ysgol Bro Ingli, in Long Street was opened in 1993.

Memorial Hall and its Medieval Pottery Kiln

The Hall was built as a memorial to the men of Newport who had given their lives in The Great War. Dr David Havard, the Mayor of Newport, 1917-1920, established ‘Our Boys Fund’ to raise money for its construction. The site was given by his mother Mrs Margaret Havard and the ladies of Newport raised additional funds to add a library and reading room. The Hall was opened in 1922. While preparing the foundations in January 1921, builders found two 15th century pottery kilns, which are now understood to be the only medieval pottery kilns to be discovered in nWales. One of the kilns is still intact under the stage of the hall, and can be seen through a glass screen, following a major restoration project.

The Iron Bridge

A stone bridge with 6 arches was constructed here in the 13th century. This was demolished in the 16th century during an epidemic, probably to stop infected people entering Newport. A ford and an alternative stepping stone crossing, which can still be seen at low tide, were used for almost 300 years. The original ‘iron bridge’ was built in 1890 and replaced in 1998. This has always been a popular place to admire the views and watch the estuary birds. 

Stepping stones

Fairs, Markets and Traders

A right to hold fairs and markets in Newport was granted by the Norman Lords who benefited from the tolls payable on every beast sold and stall erected. The main fair of the year was Ffair Curig, St Curig’s Fair, at the end of June, and that time of year is still Newport's annual fair week. In the middle of the 16th century, Newport was exporting principally wool and locally woven cloth, its harbour providing a haven for the small coastal trading vessels. The cloth trade declined for a number of reasons, including a smaller population (probably due to disease) and competition from cheaper goods in England, but the export of the wool fleeces increased. By the 19th century, the maritime trade was flourishing and flannel cloth was again an important export. Many of the larger houses in the town were built at this time by sea captains and merchants. The 1875 Directory of England and Wales listed 28 farmers in the parish of Newport and over 70 different trades including bakers, blacksmiths, carpenters, drapers, ironmongers, maltsters, a manure agent, millers, milliners, weavers, etc. and even a photographer, and a further 17 inns and public houses. Many of the latter would open only when a ship came to port! Today Newport has more shops and cafes than many communities of its size.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Acknowledgements: The Ancient Borough of Newport in Pembrokeshire, by Dillwyn Miles

Text researched and written by Newport Heritage Group

Illustrations: Roger Hill

First published by PLANED

(21.10.2021. Needs more editing………..)

Newport and the Burgage Plots

 

The oldest part of Newport.  Castle, Church, The Cross (where there was at one time a market cross), very wide Market Street (where there had to be enough space for stalls and animals), and the pattern of elongated burgage plots.  Following the founding of the town there were ambitious plans -- but they were slow in coming to fruition, and in 1434 there were 233 burgage plots but only 76 burgage holders.  In 1594 things were even worse -- 211 plots and only 44 occupied.   Travellers recorded that Newport was a miserable place.  But around the Regency period the town began to thrive, and many of the neglected or derelict burgage plots were brought into use, and houses built on the street frontages.  At first, many of them were no better than hovels, but by late Victorian and Edwardian times, as wealth came into the town from the coastal shipping trade,  many had been improved and extended, so that the town took on something of the appearance that we see today.

https://dyfedarchaeology.org.uk/HLC/newportandcarningli/newport.htm

This new map of part of the town shows the "medieval core" with the main streets and the pattern of burgage plots.  Between Market Street and Scholar's Brook (near the right edge of the map) the long strips are remarkably well preserved, with buildings on the street frontages.  But many of these buildings were not put up until the nineteenth century -- before that, many of the plots were under-used or derelict.  Dwellings are marked red, and commercial premises are yellow.

Newport Town Trail

Town Trail route.  Start and finish at the Post Office on the crossroads.  Click to enlarge.

NEWPORT TOWN TRAIL

Newport (Trefdraeth) is an Ancient Borough with a rich history extending back to the Norman Conquest. This leaflet contains a list of interesting places in and around the town. All of the sites can be reached in the course of a couple of hours of leisurely walking. The sites listed will give the visitor a glimpse of the “built heritage” of which the community is so proud; we hope that you will enjoy exploring our streets and open spaces, and that your walk will encourage you to discover more about our history and traditions.

The sites are listed in order, starting from “The Cross” in the town centre, by the Post Office. The sketch map shows all of the locations mentioned. The route description is as follows:

Walk up Market Street and then turn right along Upper Bridge Street. Near the chapel turn left and walk up Mill Lane. Turn left across the bridge, passing in front of the Castle. Then turn right to College Square and bear left along the Cilgwyn Road. Take the second left down Feidr Bentinck, passing the new housing estate, and then turn left into Goat Street. Continue to the Church Chapel and then walk down Upper St Mary Street. Cross the main road and continue down Lower St Mary Street. At the bottom of the street, take the footpath to the right, crossing the old school playing field and emerging onto Feidr Pen-y-Bont. Turn left and walk down the road. Take a short detour into the Carreg Coetan Housing Estate to see the cromlech. Continue down to the road bridge. Turn left and follow the path along the south side of the estuary all the way to Parrog. Turn right to the car park and Boat Club. If you have time, continue along the sea front to Cwm. Retrace your steps to the Parrog car park and then continue up Parrog Road to the main road. Turn right and continue to the Memorial Hall. Then return to the town centre.

Interesting Places

1. Market Street. This is where the town market used to be held. Originally it was a very wide street, catering for market stalls (and animals!) on both sides. Later on some front gardens were enclosed; but the wide pavement in front of the shops still gives a clue to the original purpose of the street. Ffair Gurig and other fairs for the sale of horses and cattle were also held here up until about 1939.

2. Bethlehem Baptist Chapel. The Baptists started preaching near here as early as 1675, but the first meeting house was built in 1760. This was enlarged as “Capel y Bont” in 1789, with further rebuilding work and enlargement in 1817 and 1855, to accommodate a congregation of 600. The Baptistry used for baptisms is up Mill Lane, a short distance above Pont Henrietta Mair.

3. The Woollen Industry. Newport was once a well-known centre for the woollen industry, producing flannels and other rough cloth. The building on the left was the biggest mill in Newport, and the machinery was run by water power. The overshot mill wheel was driven by the small stream called Afon y Felin, alongside the building. There was another, somewhat smaller, woollen mill on the western side of Mill Lane, which operated until around 1924. A water wheel on the eastern side of the lane turned a shaft which ran overhead across the lane to drive the machinery (via belt drives etc) in the factory.

4. Castle Mill. This old mill, now renovated and converted into a dwelling, was owned by the Lord Marcher and operated by a tenant corn miller. Under the feudal system the occupant of Newport Castle, as Lord of the Barony of Cemais, controlled much of the agricultural production of the neighbourhood and he had a monopoly on corn milling. The corn mill continued to operate until about 1934. It was unusual in that the water power needed to drive the big wheel came from the castle moat, which served as a millpond. Water came not just from the small stream but also from an elaborate herring-bone water-collecting system in the fields above the castle.

5. Newport Castle. The castle was built by William Martin, the Norman Lord Marcher of Cemais, around the beginning of the thirteenth century. The stone fortress, dating from about 1260, probably replaced an earlier wooden stockaded structure. It was defended by a moat and by a curtain wall, which has now virtually disappeared. There was a massive gatehouse flanked by two circular towers, and three other towers. By the mid-1500s the castle was in ruins, and so it remained until 1859 when Sir Thomas Lloyd converted the gatehouse (overlooking the town) into a Victorian residence. The castle is owned by the current Lord Marcher of Cemais, and is not normally open to the public.

6. St Mary’s Church and Churchyard. There was a church here in the early days of the Norman settlement, probably dedicated to St Curig. In the thirteenth century it was rebuilt and re-dedicated to St Mary; but only the tower remains from this period. The church was greatly enlarged in 1835, and it was rebuilt and restored to its present state in 1879. The feature of greatest interest is the massive squat Norman-style tower, and in the spacious and airy churchyard the gravestones tell us a great deal about the family histories and professions of Newport people over the centuries.

7. Madame Bevan’s College. Here, on College Square, in the colour-washed houses on the right, was one of the foremost educational establishments of nineteenth-century Pembrokeshire. It was set up as part of the Circulating Schools movement led by Griffith Jones, and the main benefactor of the Newport school was Madame Bevan of Laugharne. It provided a sound education for local children between 1804 and 1875, and was also used for the training of hundreds of teachers. John Morgan (1786 - 1865), master of the school for 47 years, lived in the cottage on the left.

8. The Church Chapel. This simple building was built in 1799 by the Bowen family of Llwyngwair for the use of Methodists, who were at that time still looked upon as part of the Anglican communion. It was used for prayer meetings and other services until the Calvinistic Methodists seceded from the established church in 1811, and since that time it has served as a church hall and meeting room for the parish. The “Plygain” service is always held here in the early hours of Christmas morning.

9. Ebenezer Chapel. The Independents were active in Newport from about 1700 onwards, worshipping first of all in private houses. Around 1743 an L-shaped chapel was built here, and for about a century it was simply known as “Capel-L”. But then a growing congregation demanded larger accommodation, and around 1844 the present chapel was built with room for 750 worshippers.

10. The Old Primary School. This typical Victorian school was built in 1875 as the “Board” School for children of all ages; but later it became the Newport County Primary School. In 1993 it was abandoned with the opening of Ysgol Bro Ingli in the town, and in 1995 it was converted by Preseli Pembrokeshire District Council for use as a Business Centre and Youth Hostel. The old caretaker’s house was converted by the West Wales Energy Group as the Newport Eco House in conjunction with Eco Centre Wales. The  PV installation on the roof was the first in the British Isles to be connected to the grid, in October 1996 — from small beginnings, great things can grow. 

11. The Street Pattern and Burgage Plots. The old town of Newport had a north-south axis, with the main streets running from the castle down to the estuary. The lower part of Long Street and the lower part of Lower St Mary Street are “abandoned streets” which were once bustling with life. The elongated gardens running perpendicularly to these streets show the outlines of the burgage plots held by the original burgesses or settlers in the town in the Middle Ages. In 1434 there were 88 on Long Street alone.

12. Carreg Coetan Arthur. This is the most easily accessible burial chamber in the Newport area, located in a small enclosure in the Carreg Coetan housing estate. Like Pentre Ifan, it dates from the Neolithic period, about 3500 BC. It was excavated in 1979-80. There is a massive capstone balanced on just two of the four uprights. The name (King Arthur’s Quoit) is somewhat fanciful.

13. Pilgrim’s Stepping Stones. If you stand on the bridge and look upstream you can see (except at high tide) a series of fine stepping stones over the river. Traditionally these are associated with the medieval pilgrims who were travelling to St David’s via Nevern. There was a bridge here in the Middle Ages, but according to tradition it was removed in the 1600’s to prevent an epidemic from reaching the town from Nevern parish. Until 1894, when the present bridge was built, the stepping stones were used at low tide and a ferry boat operated when the tide was high.

14. Birdwatching Paradise. The estuarine habitat on both sides of the bridge is a varied one, perfect for the birds which feed and roost here in large numbers, throughout the year. The birds are most abundant at low water. Gulls, Canada geese, small wading birds, mallards, shelducks, swans, little egrets and curlews are frequently seen. Near the gate, a seat and interpretive panel.

15. Shiphill Lime Kiln. This is a large and spectacular lime kiln (also referred to as the Bryncyn kiln or the Sheephill kiln) on the northern shore of the estuary. Limestone fragments and culm were carried to the adjacent little creek by sailing vessels which came in on the tide. The kiln may well have been built in medieval times, and it was used to provide lime for the castle “grange” at Berry Hill. There was also a small shipyard here, owned and operated through most of the nineteenth century by the Havard family. The lime kiln was renovated by volunteers some years ago.

16. Estuary Walk. The walkway along the estuary towards Parrog has been designed for ease of access, and is suitable for wheelchair use. Most of the route is quite sheltered, with willow glades and tall trees. At extreme high tide, parts might be flooded. It was not always this pleasant — the area around the discharge of Scholars Brook was once the location of the town mortuary, slaughterhouse, and rubbish dump. This was the “Morfa Quarter’ — the poorer end of town.

17. Yr Hen Gastell. The innocuous mound adjacent to the tennis courts marks the site of Newport’s first Norman castle. It was a circular earthwork with a palisade and a wooden fortress on top. It was built in 1191 by William Fitzmartin, and attacked and destroyed several times by the Welsh princes in the early thirteenth century, before being abandoned when the stone castle was built in 1260 above the town.

18. The Parrog. This is the “new port” which gave the town its English name. For 500 years after the conquest there were few port facilities here, and herring fishing smacks and trading vessels were simply beached and then loaded and unloaded at low tide. In the 1700's trade was increasing rapidly, and the Court Leet allowed local merchants to extend and raise a spit of land at Parrog and to build storehouses and trading quays. In the early 1800’s several dry-stone quay walls were built of slate slabs from the “sea quarries” beyond Pen Catman. There were at least four lime kilns on the Parrog, two of which remain. The largest warehouse has been converted by the Boat Club as its headquarters. One other little storehouse remains, together with the old Parrog mortuary.

19. The Seaside Houses. Along the seaside between the quays and the Cwm there is an attractive jumble of little salty cottages and more substantial houses served by small tracks and lanes. Some of them have walled gardens. Originally there must have been a small fishing community here, and some of the cottages are probably more than 400 years old. Other cottages were built later by the merchants and mariners of the port. In the1800's, with the development of the early tourist industry, a number of substantial lodging-houses were built; and from 1850 onwards many of the Parrog holidaymakers came from the South Wales mining valleys.

20. The Lifeboat Station at Cwm. This is a classic example of a white elephant. It was built in 1884 for the Newport lifeboat “Clevedon”, but abandoned in 1895 because of the difficulty in launching the lifeboat at certain states of the tide and because of the dangers associated with the bar at the mouth of the river.

21. Newport Pottery. This substantial building was at one time a malthouse, but it was later bought by the Cardigan and District Agricultural Co-operative Society and used as a depot. It sold coal, culm and other goods imported by sea and landed at the Parrog, and also corn and agricultural implements. After standing empty for many years it was converted for use as a pottery, and more recently into accommodation units.

22. Memorial Hall and Medieval Pottery Kiln. The Memorial Hall was built in 1922 by public subscription to honour the local people who fell in the First World War. It also included a library and reading room. Work on the foundations revealed two 15th century pottery kilns — the only ones surviving in Wales. One of the kilns is revealed through a glass screen, following a major restoration project.

23. Cotham Lodge. Next door to the hall is a fine old house surrounded by tall trees. This was originally the dower house belonging to the Bowen family of Llwyngwair — traditionally it was set aside for the use of the widow following the death of the estate owner, when the heir and his family took over the mansion. About 50m away, on the other side of the road, Ffynnon Cotham is a spring of clean water contained within a masonry arch.

24. The Newport Inns. At the beginning of this century there were 24 inns in Newport, but most of them closed as a result of the temperance movement associated with the religious revivals or because of increased excise duties on alcohol. Today only four remain. The Golden Lion Inn is a very old coaching inn, known as The Green Dragon before 1830. The Royal Oak is also very old, and is named after the oak tree in which Charles II hid in 1651. The Castle Hotel is a spacious and more recent building, known for about a century up until 1970 as The Commercial Hotel. The Llwyngwair Arms is another old coaching inn, with a coaching and stabling yard approached through an arch on the north side of the main road. It is the meeting place of the Court Leet, an ancient institution which keeps alive the traditions of the Ancient Borough of Newport. The Lord Marcher attends some of its meetings, and the annual mayor making ceremony is held here in November each year.

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The first edition of this leaflet was written by Brian John and was first published by the Newport Town Twinning Association. This version is published by Canolfan Croeso, Newport.

Medieval Pottery kiln

The old Pottery

Tap at the top of Feidr Bentinck

Stepping stones

Identifying estuarine birds

Baptistry, Mill Lane

Street nameplate on the last of the old mill buildings

Parrog steps made of slate slabs

Ffynnon Cotham and its arch

Carreg Coetan